![]() ![]() Here's what the setup looks like when placed inside the jacket. The top of the e-cig is attached to a removable mouthpiece which goes into vinyl tubing and into a small 12V pump. The e-cig screen is viewable, and the buttons and charging port are accessible. The top jack connector is for the pump switch. Power came from the 12V battery into the LED buttons, mounted onto the end of the controller, then back out and into the helmet. The flame LED arrays were controlled by a small 3-button setup. ![]() Even with vegetable glycerine this device can only be used in short bursts. Do not use tobacco e-juice as it will stink and you'll smoke yourself out. Vegetable glycerine is food safe and contains 0% tobacco or flavorings. THE VAPOR CLOUD IS FROM VEGETABLE GLYCERINE, which is the main component in most e-juice vaporizers. The e-cig was placed inside the holder and connectors were placed on a standoff to make removing the controller simple when putting on the costume. Plenty of de-lam happening, and some gnarly voids I missed filling in when I was in Tinkercad, but an easy fix when the putty goes over. The mandible section came out really detailed. This was not necessary since all the magic happens on the front of the mask and it doesn't really matter if someone sees a black stocking on the back of my head. My original idea was to have a clam shell design to completely enclose the head. This picture shows the back of the skull that was not used. The layers also started to de-laminate partway through, which were then super glued back together during the print and held together with a clamp.I think my issue was old filament that i wanted to use up on a print that would be painted. I was having weird bed adhesion issues, which is why there's a beefy raft under the print. Knowing that I was going to cover the entire mask with putty to smooth out the shape of the skull, I used low resolution setting for this print. I was having some bed adhesion problems with my printer, so I added a thin raft to the underside of the skull, which is what you can see in the above picture and in the Tinkercad file. Once I was happy with the shape the model can be exported as an STL for printing. I made some simple shapes to accommodate that width and placed these tabs on the back section of the mask that was removed. I used thick elastic straps which were about 1" wide. The mask needs tabs for the straps to loop through. After printing there's plenty of time to make more modifications. I resized the asteroid shape and placed it over the openings around the temples and combined the shapes to make them one. In the Tinkercad library dropdown there's a featured library which has an asteroid shape that I thought would work well, since it looked right when it was squished flat and had a bumpy texture. Instead of trying to get a perfect hole shape on the inside I decided to just repair the unwanted openings with new shapes to cover them up. When cleaning out th einside of the skull there were a few areas that were removed erroneously. Combine the shapes to remove the inside of the skull cap. For reference, this step took the most time at about 30 minutes to get a cavity inside the skull i was happy with.īring the copy of the hole skull that was duplicated earlier and align it with the skull cap. Contine combining shapes until the inside of the mask is completely hollowed out. In order to put the mask on the back of the skull was removed by placing a large box hole on the back of the skull. You don't have to do this all at once, you can drop in a few hole shapes and combine in stages to make sure too much material isn't removed. Simple shapes were dropped onto the workplane and resized to remove material from the inside of the skull. It's not perfect, and there's plenty of geometry that needs to be removed inside, but it's a great start. Select the hole skull and the solid skull, then combine the shapes to carve the hole shape from the solid. Before carving out the cavity make a duplicate of the hole skull, this will be used again to carve out the skull top. Align the hole with the solid skull mask. ![]()
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